Friday, April 27, 2012

Au revoir, la France!

Well, folks, my time in France has nearly come to an end. It's hard to believe, but I'm moving out of my apartment tomorrow and will be back home in EIGHT days. Holy crap, where has the time gone? These past 7 months have just flown by. I said my goodbyes at school last week because (surprise surprise) even though my contract doesn't technically end until Monday, we're on vacation again. I won't lie to you though, the school goodbye was a little bit anticlimactic. I didn't even get to say goodbye to a lot of my students due to the fact that my last week was sort of interrupted by Carnaval and exams. I did, however, get to have a goodbye lunch with my boss, my first and only meal with her. Better late than never I guess? Unfortunately, the students were my favorite part of that school so I'm a little disappointed I didn't get to say goodbye to them. I honestly could not have asked for better kids, they were all fantastic! I've spent the past week saying goodbye to friends and packing up the past 7 months of my life, but Adrienne and I did make time for a day trip on Monday to Mont St. Michel, which is an abbey in Normandy that would be pretty ordinary, except for the fact that it's built on top of a rock on a tiny little island in the English Channel two miles from the French coast. It was built nearly 1,000 years ago when the only way to access it was to walk across at low tide. How on earth they managed to do it I literally have no idea, but it was incredible! Definitely one of my favorite places in France. Also, it's the most visited place in all of France!

I'm staying in Tours until Tuesday, then flying to Edinburgh, Scotland to see Lucy! I'll be there for four days and then I'm flying straight home to Atlanta. I'm definitely excited to be going home, but a little bit sad too because I don't know when I'll be back here again. When I did study abroad I was completely overcome with this feeling of "I need to do whatever I can to come back" and now that I've done that I sort of feel like the France chapter of my life (or at least the chapter of living here) might be over, and I'm ok with that. There is a lot I will miss though. In a way I feel like I'm just now graduating since I had this job lined up while I was still in school, so now I definitely understand how everyone was feeling about trying to find a job, deciding whether or not to go to grad school, etc. I'm not gonna lie, it's pretty scary, but also quite exciting at the same time. For the first time in my life I don't know exactly where I'll be in 6 months. The possibilities are endless! I cannot wait to see what the future brings, but I am so unbelievably grateful I had this opportunity. I'm quite proud of everything I've survived and accomplished over here. Not only have I improved my French, but I've had my first experience with the real (well, semi-real at least) world. Survived being homeless for 3 weeks. Survived dealing with the CAF, banks, real estate agency, office of immigration, etc. Survived moving to a place where I knew absolutely no one. Learned just how assertive you have to be to actually get things done here. Learned teaching isn't as scary as I thought it was. Learned that while we all know the French openly hate America, they actually secretly LOVE America. I could not go one day without passing someone wearing an American flag on their shirt or at least seeing one in a store window. Thinking the whole anti-American thing is a little bit Bush 2004-era. They love Obama!

Things I will miss include but are not limited to:
  • never being more than 5 minutes walking from a bakery, no matter how hard you try
  • French fashion
  • The coffee!
  • The foooood
  • Hearing the word bon/bonne every time you leave somewhere. They ALWAYS wish you a bonne journée (have a nice day), bonne après-midi (afternoon), bonne soirée (evening), bon courage (good luck), bon apetit, bon voyage, and now they're wishing me a bon retour (have a nice trip home).
  • speaking French on a daily basis
  • being a stone's throw away from other European countries
  • the markets
  • the WINE
  • the architecture
  • trains!
  • being only an hour away from Paris, because really, when is that ever going to happen again in my life?
  •  2-hour lunches everyday (while it was an inconvenience in the beginning, you get used to it pretty quickly)
  • Moroccan food!
  • my 12-hour work week
  • and of course, mes amis!
Things I will NOT miss include:
  • French bureaucracy (now trying to undo all the paperwork that was really only finished a few weeks ago)
  • The astronomical cost of living
  • That one waiter from Au Bureau
  • People saying to me, "you're not french, are you?"
  • having to take the bus 45 minutes to school and back
  • The eyesore that is the tramwork all over town (still looks the same as it did in September)
  •  going to the laundromat
  • waking up at 6 am to get to school at 8:30 to find out the teacher's not coming (happened 4 times)
  • moving in & out of my apartment without a car
Things I am excited about coming home to:
  • Chick Fil A, cheddar cheese (just found it for the first time fresh from the deli here last week. only took 7 months), peanut butter, mexican food, indian food, cajun food, etc... =basically having more than one type of food to choose from
  • My washing machine, dryer, & dishwasher
  • my car! (Hope I remember how to drive still!)
  • My dogs! Cannot wait to see this face again:
 
  • My bed
  • The dollar instead of the euro. I'm going to feel like I've won the lottery once I convert all my money!
  • East coast time zone
  • And of course, my family and friends


All in all, I'm so glad I've had this experience but I just cannot wait to be back home! I've got a bit more packing to do and a few more goodbyes to say and before I know it I'll be back in Atlanta!!

Thursday, April 5, 2012

How to win an argument with a Frenchman

Hello world!

Long time no blog, eh? While I would like to say I've been busy, we all know that would be a massive lie with my 12-hour work week. Working hard or hardly working? As a friend from home put it in one of our recent skype dates, "are you actually working over there or are you just hanging out?" The answer is mostly hanging out.

However I have managed to squeeze some productivity into my life lately. A couple of weekends ago I went to Lyon with Lucy, Carys, and Rachel, one of Lucy's friends from Edinburgh for St. Patty's day. Lyon is in the Alps and is the 2nd largest city in France as well as the gastronomical capital of France. We arrived in Lyon early Friday evening and spent the night enjoying the view from our hostel and then explored the town a little bit before we had dinner in a "bouchon" - the local lyonnais restaurants that serve traditional French food. Not entirely sure what the word bouchon means but I do know a tire-bouchon is a corkscrew so I guess it either means cork or screw? Hoping for the former! We spent St. Patty's day walking around the town with Carys as our tour guide since she lived there a couple of years ago. After a little stroll we decided to rent bikes to ride through the parc tête d'or which has a free zoo! We then spent the afternoon in a pub watching the Six Nations rugby tournament, the first rugby game I've ever watched! The Brits have introduced me to so much! That next night we were determined to faire la fete French-style, but contrary to my previous beliefs about St. Patty's Day à la French, it is a HUGE celebration here and it was so crowded we could barely get our feet in the bar doors, so the evening was cut a bit short. Still had a lovely time though! Defs made me reminiscent for my times in the south of France. Le sigh.

Also on the subject of travel, the students at my school have been going on lots of field trips lately to really exotic locations. They've gone to Belgium, Italy, and England since I've been here. Not that I'm jealous or anything, but when I was a senior in high school, the only field trip I took was with my environmental science class to the local waste treatment facility, which, as you can imagine, was pretty shitty. Har har. These kids don't know how good they have it!


Today marks the one year anniversary that I found out my admissions decision for this program. I had said that if I got accepted I would literally go anywhere in France even if I had never heard of it, and I did. I knew absolutely nothing about my town and to say I was terrified when I got here would be a massive understatement. It's pretty scary being fresh out of college leaving your country and everything and everyone you've ever known, but I wouldn't trade this experience for the world. Two years ago, I had never been to France, and only out of the country once really. Though living here has been my dream, I never in a million years thought it would actually happen. And it's hard to believe, but my time here is coming to a close. Though my contract technically goes through April 30, the French have another vacation coming up (shocking I know) so my last day teaching is actually April 19, just two weeks from tomorrow! And Steph, the Canadian German assistant and my dear friend from school, has already left! The German assistants have a contract that is one month shorter than the English assistants so last week was her final one. Things never really sink in with me until they've actually happened, so I'm not quite in freak-out mode about leaving, but as much as I sometimes complain about things here, I will definitely miss it. I've had some really good times here and made some absolutely wonderful friends! I am excited to go home soon though and hopefully find a job where I won't be quite as poor as I am now, because though learning to make pasta 25,000 different ways has been both entertaining and educational, I'm ready to eat something that cost more than a euro. Speaking of money, the CAF has finally decided to give me some! In typical French fashion, though I applied in January they waited until April to give it to me. But hey, I can't complain, that money will be financing some traveling, though I haven't decided where yet. And in case you haven't heard me talk about the CAF, all you need to know is that it's basically money that we assistants are getting for being so goddamn poor and I'm finally getting it now that I don't have to pay my rent anymore. How convenient.



And, last but not least, a completely irrelevant yet hilarious story about my run-in with a French waiter (and the law) on what would have otherwise been a completely ordinary Sunday afternoon. On Sunday Carys, Lucy, and I decided to have lunch at one of the restaurants we frequent. I thought ordering a calzone would be a safe choice, but about midway through it I noticed some clear liquid seeping out of the middle. I opened it up to find a completely raw egg inside. Literally, no exaggeration, there was no white in it. Naturally I was not OK with this, so I caught our already-rude waiter's attention and said "Um, excuse me, this egg isn't cooked at all." Before I could even finish my sentence he snatched my plate up from the table without apologizing, knocking my fork onto my lap and said "attention," which basically means something to the effect of "look out." Clearly I was a little bit insulted, because if it weren't for him, I wouldn't have had to faire attention in the first place! I then had raw egg on my jeans, which was not ideal. After a couple of minutes he finally acknowledged my existence and told me they were bringing another one. I told him that I didn't want another one because I had completely lost my appetite at this point and that it was "dégueulasse," which I thought only meant disgusting, but after a quick browse of wordreference.com post-incident I learned that it a whole slew of things including but not limited to: barf, yucky, lousy, crappy, vulgar, despicable, icky, spew, throw up, and finally the word I was actually going for - disgusting. Oops. Also learned it is a rude/insulting word, and so I think the lesson to be learned here is that a quick browse of word reference never hurt anyone. However, I maintain that statement that the egg was indeed "throw-up." Oh well, it at least provided comedy value. Anyway, upon hearing me say that it was dégueulasse, the waiter had the gall to laugh at me, which really got my blood boiling! He never even apologized! After about 10 minutes Carys and Lucy had finished their food and we asked for the bill. At first the waiter tried to pull a bit of a trick and just tell us the amount as opposed to giving us the itemized receipt like usual. However he eventually gave it to us and instead of breaking down the cost of everything it simply said "3 complete meals." Obviously he was not prepared for us to fight in French. So I caught his attention and said "um, excuse me, but this says three meals and we only received two cooked meals." He then told me that if you eat you pay and I told him that I had only eaten until I had found the mysterious clear liquid in the middle and that it was "dégoutant," which is the more mild/polite version of disgusting, and that it's unhealthy to eat raw eggs (defs lacked the vocab to say it can give you salmonella). He continues on about how it's not a lack of respect, it's just that when you eat you pay and I missed out on the little bit in the middle, but the end of the sentence was "anglais," so he either said that he wasn't being disrespectful because my friends and I were speaking English to one another or that he wasn't being disrespectful because I am an English man (English woman would be anglaise with an e at the end) in which case I would be doubly offended! I insist that I'm not paying for that and he storms off and comes back a couple of minutes later threatening to - no joke - call the police! My response to this was probably a bit brash looking back now, but I apparently rolled my eyes and said "ah, franchement?" which means "oh, really?" Again, oops. But seriously, I think the police have better things to do than worry about someone paying for a calzone considering the shooting a couple of weeks ago. After talking very loudly about it to his coworkers for a couple of minutes he comes back and takes Carys' and Lucy's money and demonstrates his concession by hanging his head and avoiding eye contact. I had just won an argument with a Frenchman! You have no idea how proud I am. I literally felt (and still feel 3 days later) like I can take on the world! Once you've won an argument with the French you can do anything. Though I'll admit this wasn't my finest moment, I did also learn that I am capable of doing this entirely in French! I think my French is a little better than I thought! Though if I had had the quick wit or the vocabulary my response to him saying "you eat, you pay" would've been "you don't give me salmonella, I pay." I'm finally getting the hang of just how assertive you have to be to get things done in France, just in time to leave. Because not to compare France to the US, but quite frankly, I NEVER would have had to be so assertive/rude if that had happened in America because they would have been worried about me suing them for getting me sick! Not to mention the fact that in the States waiters depend on tips, whereas in France tip is already included in the bill so if they're not a good waiter, they sometimes feel they don't have to work as hard. I think it's safe to say I can never go back to that restaurant, but it was the principle of the matter that I cared so much about in the first place.


Phew, that was a short novel! À bientôt, mes amis!